Leviathans of the deep go head to head.

“The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever.” – Jacques Yves Cousteau

This famous quote from Cousteau hits home when discussing dive watches because they really do cast a spell on the wearer. These class of watches, arguably more than others, invoke a key trait of human nature which is to explore the unknown. It is hard to describe that sense of pull one gets when confronted with the vastness of the ocean, we must go to where we do not know. To help us in these endeavours, we have developed tools that can help us go deeper, and explore further. The topic of our debate today is; which of these historically tough as nails dive watches should make the case for your next collection?

To begin, we will look at one of the most significant dive watch brands ever created, Doxa, and its Sub 300T model. In 1964, the head of product development at Doxa gathered together a team of ocean experts (notably including Jacques Yves Cousteau), to create a watch purpose-built to help divers. After 3 years of extensive research and development, the Doxa Sub 300T was released at Baselworld in 1967. Flash forward to modern day, and this watch is available in a variety of colours with their own specific names. A personal favourite of mine is the silver dial version entitled Searambler. Boasting a whopping 1200 metres of water resistance, 42.5mm case, unidirectional bezel with decompression scale and a helium escape valve, this watch can really go just about anywhere. Rounding in at around $2,550 CAD, this watch brings a lot of bang for the buck.

Image Credit: “Doxa”

The other model that we will explore today comes from a Swiss powerhouse brand that is known for its exceptional value proposition and diving heritage, Oris. In 1965, Oris launched its response to the diving watch boom, the Diver 65. Since then, Oris has been expanding its diving line with the introduction of various more robust divers in the early 2000’s, culminating in the Oris Aquis in 2011. The brand contributes to the diving community at large by advocating awareness to ocean conservation, as well as by sponsoring expert divers such as Anna Von Boetticher.

Image Credit: “Oris”

The Oris Aquis Date will be our second contender for your collection. Specifically the version with the SW-200 movement which comes in at around the same price point as the aforementioned Doxa, $2,800 CAD. This model sports a range of case sizes from 36.5 to 43.5mm, is able to reach depths of 300 metres, and is topped off with a ceramic bezel and tapered stainless steel bracelet.

Image Credit: “Oris”

In comparing these two brilliant diving watches for a potential collection, the question of fit comes to mind. I cannot speak personally as to the fit of the Doxa, but through researching on forums and other online media publications, it appears that the Doxa fits securely and does not appear as gargantuan as one would think due to its short lug to lug distance. However, I have read reviews that due to the design of the diving bezel, the watch does sit quite high on wrist. Rather this only adds to its use in real diving situations as opposed to diving through paperwork at your desk. On the other hand, I have been privileged to try on the Oris at my local jeweller, and can attest to the comfortability of this watch. I do enjoy a good bracelet taper, (best in class being vintage 5 digit Rolexes), but the Oris is no slouch. This is also a big watch, but does not feel heavy on the wrist due to this bracelet tapering. Personally the 43.5mm size is perfect for my 7 inch wrist. I would side with the Oris when it comes to overall fit.

In terms of raw diving prowess, the Doxa edges out the Oris due to its superior depth rating and overall design elements better suited to time spent under the ocean surface. Its history being entwined with the likes of Cousteau also add to the Doxa’s mythical status when it comes to diving enthusiasts.

If I were to have to choose one of these watches for my collection, I would tend to lean towards the Doxa Sub 300T. The Oris is the better daily driver, at home on land or in the water and none can argue that it is not a fantastic dive watch. However, the Doxa is the watch that due to its design, robustness and history would force me to dream of diving deeper, and exploring further. If I were holed up at the bottom of the ocean in a diving bell, i’d want the Doxa strapped to my wrist.

-Mister Wrist(er)